The radio control tracks were well shaped and joined. The detail is good--just a little knife trimming on some edges, as you can see in the photo. The problem with the tracks is they are rubbery soft, which resists quick paint curing. Paint will cure, but takes weeks. I remedied this by spray painting two light coats, then drybrushing aluminum, then after a 2-day cure, I installed the tracks and sprayed Testor's Dullcote. Problems solved.
I drybrush with pure white, often. White drybrushing is hardly ever done enough in the modeling world. (Same can be said of black washes).
Make sure you drybrush with pure white before you apply a black wash. Get all the raised corners and edges lighter. You will be white drybrushing right thru the very end of the entire model finishing process, but start before washing.
My black wash consists of odorless thinner and crushed black pastel. Get the whole model wet. The thinner I use is fairly inert; it doesn't harm the plastic or finish. Every bit of detail can use the wash.
Don't be dissuaded if the finish looks bad at this point. As with dullcote, the thinner will evaporate, leaving just the faint coloring. Your model will never look worse than now. Also, any work from a pastel wash can be reversed, with plain thinner later. Once you are happy with the wash, spray dullcote will give it permanence.
Grey is painted inside the sponsons. I use various brushes to get brown pastel powder behind the wheels. Dullcote spray will dissipate the intensity of the brown pastel dust, so be generous with the pastels.
One of the nicer details to this project was adding the spare bucket at the back. After it was installed between the exhaust heat shields, I added two fine pieces of sprue, to simulate the pail's wire handle hung over the engine starter. The illusion uses two short pieces to appear as one whole handle.
To get such fine plastic, I stretched sprue over a flame. I cut two 2mm lengths and used tweezers and CA glue to get them in place.
Part of the Tiger's look is the heaviness of the tracks. For a scale model, the tracks need to rest on the roadwheels as if the links are many pounds of weight laid at rest.
Also, the run from the sprocket to the first roadwheel needs to have a realistic sag.
The R/C tracks do not want to do anything of the sort^^^. So they have to be glued to each roadwheel past the first station. I start at the back and work 2-3 wheels at a time. I use thick CA glue and tweezer tips and a knife blade to hold the track in 2 places as it dries. A trick is to hold the parts in place and audibly count to thirty. Sometimes this counting process has to be repeated a few times, for the glue to hold.
Later, shiny spots will be mitigated with dullcote spray. Use simple paper stencils for selective dullcote spraying, when you need to hit a small section and don't want to cover the whole model again.
Every single raised edge is an opportunity to review for pure white drybrushing.
Thanks Clive. I detailed 6 tanks last year, 2 in mourning for my cats, the StuG for Petey and the this Tiger for Mellie. In-between there were 3 Shermies and an M103. I did some work on Pershings in June but nothing was completed.
This Tiger was a blur, looking at the thread now I don't remember a thing about it. That's how big Mel's death was to us. I'll take this model out and do a new series photo with it, and Petey's StuG as well.